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Super helpful explanation…thanks!

I see it. Is that a LiFePO4 12v battery?

You could calculate it per kWh but I think the result will be the same.

12v outlet or 12v battery? I ask because more than one person on this forum has claimed that Slate is including a 12v battery. I’ll believe it when I see it. Until then I’m going with a voltage step down converter.

My wild ass guess is that the extended battery cost per unit is about $9.5K based on the SK-On info shared publicly. That’s $39.58 per mile of range quoted by Slate. That’s just under $6K for the standard range. Thus the delta is roughly $3.5K.

I think the marginal cost is roughly $3.5K. Definitely not minimal.

Or how willing you are to void the warranty.

A couple of assumptions here: 1) the 400v drive battery is DC, 2) V2L is really AC output…either for 110/120v devices or 240v for V2H (connected to the house electrical panel). Either way, V2L requires an inverter (400v DC to 120/240v AC). The cost and complexity associated with the inverter is...

This vid has me seriously thinking that a 30a/240v circuit hardwired might be enough. I like the simpler (no app) approach.

Helpful. My understanding is that 40a requires a 60a circuit where 48a requires 80a. I need to do some checking on what is available at the house. The Emporia Pro has a feature that regulates charge to available current…pretty cool if it works. Also an extra 8a at 240v is an extra 1.9kW...

Is it worth it to spend the extra money for 8 more amps of charging current (40a with plug vs. 48a hardwired)?

Watching his review of the Emporia Pro. Very thorough!

I looked at L2 chargers today. The $600 Tesla universal might be a good way to go. Requires 50a service. Charger in the garage, charging outside.

There is an Australian company called Egon that is working on a super slick 48v version of their 12/24v DC Hub product. It’s a simply ingenious product that takes all the guesswork out of wiring a second battery system. You just connect everything to the hub…alternator, DC-DC converter/charger...

Assuming the number of cycles is the same (~2000), you get more years of life for the same amount of annual driving (60% more) with the larger battery along with better range per charge cycle. Presumably better resale value too.

I am also happy to report that now that we are into some very sunny days in western Washington, my two 100w PV panels on the top of my FJ's RTT are easily keeping my Anker Solix C1000 topped off while still allowing my fridge in the rig to run 24/7. You might be wondering why I need a current...

ICECO makes a nice little 250Wh battery pack with 12v, USB A, and USB C out. Charges off 12v in and most likely will fit in the dashboard cavity. I have one and use it to run my fridge, acting as a current step up converter off my Anker’s 5a/100w USB C out. Also has built in MPPT solar...

Mahindra Roxor. $30.6K for the all weather version.

Can I get that test vehicle in AWD and a winch on the front?

The Scout is passenger side front which means backing in to be in the same location as Slate?