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Suggestions for a Level 2 home charger?

Chrisy

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One more vote for Emporia L2 charges.
I have one and it is rock solid for years!
 
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Chrisy

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What are the pros and cons of just using the supplied cable for level 2 charging compared to buying a unit?
I might be wrong but auto manufcaturers usually only supply Level-1 chargers (due to cost I assume).
Both my Tesla and Rivian came with only Level-1 as well. Ford offered Level-2 chargers as additional bonus/package for some time but the basic delviery also included Level-1 charger only.

If that is the case your question is moot as you cannot use "the supplied cable for level 2 charging". You can only use the supplied cable for level 1 charging.

BUT(!) if I am wrong and Slate does provide a Level-2 charger then the question boils down what charging rates (Amperage) the Slate one supports. If it supports high rates I would say one of the pros would be that it comes free.
For another pro using the supplied L2 charger is the (possible) integration of the communication with the L2 charger into the Slate APP (wild guess on my end). This would be a convenience comapred to using two seperate apps (one for the vehicle (Slate app) and on for the charger(emporia app). But if you have other Emporia stuff installed already then you'd already have the Emporia app (like me) so this pro might be not relevant.

On the other hand L2 chargers are by design very dumb devices and all the clever battery management logic (to match the checmicals, the state of the battery installed in the vehicle, plus the enviromental factors) are all inside the vehicle. This is intendended to be this way for all EVs.
This means no "real charging advantage" can come from Slate's L2 charger "just because" you are using the same manufacturer's charger who made the vehicle.

If you want to learn about pros and cons of Level-1 Vs Level-2 charging, as @The Weatherman correctly said:
" I second the suggestion to checkout State of Charge. Tom is the source for every thing EV charging."
https://youtube.com/@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney

edit: looking at below picture
A) I stand corrected and Slate will provide L2.
B) not sure about the gauge being low enough to support a sustained 48A but again I might be wrong (again!:CWL:). As mentioned above, the charging rate of this L2 charger will decide the actual pro/con of using it.

Slate Auto Pickup Truck Suggestions for a Level 2 home charger? 1784029962362-8o
 
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fxrdr31

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I might be wrong but auto manufcaturers usually only supply Level-1 chargers (due to cost I assume).
Both my Tesla and Rivian came with only Level-1 as well. Ford offered Level-2 chargers as additional bonus/package for some time but the basic delviery also included Level-1 charger only.

If that is the case your question is moot as you cannot use "the supplied cable for level 2 charging". You can only use the supplied cable for level 1 charging.

BUT(!) if I am wrong and Slate does provide a Level-2 charger then the question boils down what charging rates (Amperage) the Slate one supports. If it supports high rates I would say one of the pros would be that it comes free.
For another pro using the supplied L2 charger is the (possible) integration of the communication with the L2 charger into the Slate APP (wild guess on my end). This would be a convenience comapred to using two seperate apps (one for the vehicle (Slate app) and on for the charger(emporia app). But if you have other Emporia stuff installed already then you'd already have the Emporia app (like me) so this pro might be not relevant.

On the other hand L2 chargers are by design very dumb devices and all the clever battery management logic (to match the checmicals, the state of the battery installed in the vehicle, plus the enviromental factors) are all inside the vehicle. This is intendended to be this way for all EVs.
This means no "real charging advantage" can come from Slate's L2 charger "just because" you are using the same manufacturer's charger who made the vehicle.

If you want to learn about pros and cons of Level-1 Vs Level-2 charging, as @The Weatherman correctly said:
" I second the suggestion to checkout State of Charge. Tom is the source for every thing EV charging."
https://youtube.com/@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney

edit: looking at below picture
A) I stand corrected and Slate will provide L2.
B) not sure about the gauge being low enough to support a sustained 48A but again I might be wrong (again!:CWL:). As mentioned above, the charging rate of this L2 charger will decide the actual pro/con of using it.

1784029962362-8o.webp
I happen to stumble upon some info. Slate has partnered with Treehouse to install chargers and they give a little bit of info on the included cable according to them it will do 9.6 kW max at up to 40 amps which should do 10%-100% in 6 hours. The Emporia charger they compare it will do 11.5 kW max at 48 amps and 5 hour charge time. Seems like if you have a 50 amp outlet then it would be no reason to have a charger installed. https://pages.treehouse.pro/slate
 

Chrisy

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I happen to stumble upon some info. Slate has partnered with Treehouse to install chargers and they give a little bit of info on the included cable according to them it will do 9.6 kW max at up to 40 amps which should do 10%-100% in 6 hours. The Emporia charger they compare it will do 11.5 kW max at 48 amps and 5 hour charge time. Seems like if you have a 50 amp outlet then it would be no reason to have a charger installed. https://pages.treehouse.pro/slate
What a great find!
 

ElectricShitbox

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I happen to stumble upon some info. Slate has partnered with Treehouse to install chargers and they give a little bit of info on the included cable according to them it will do 9.6 kW max at up to 40 amps which should do 10%-100% in 6 hours. The Emporia charger they compare it will do 11.5 kW max at 48 amps and 5 hour charge time. Seems like if you have a 50 amp outlet then it would be no reason to have a charger installed. https://pages.treehouse.pro/slate
If the included EVSE does 40 amps, I honestly probably won't bother with using anything else. My current EVSE is a portable 40 amp unit, but with J1772. It would still work with a cheap adapter, but I see no reason not to use the included cable. I have a 60 amp circuit, so I'll hardwire a 48 amp unit eventually, but the difference in charge time won't affect my life.
 

fxrdr31

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If the included EVSE does 40 amps, I honestly probably won't bother with using anything else. My current EVSE is a portable 40 amp unit, but with J1772. It would still work with a cheap adapter, but I see no reason not to use the included cable. I have a 60 amp circuit, so I'll hardwire a 48 amp unit eventually, but the difference in charge time won't affect my life.
I agree the included cable seems like the best fit for me as well assuming the length is long enough to reach or I might actually have to make room in my garage to pull it in .
 

tubes

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So I have two 20 amp circuits in my garage.

Circuit 1: GFCI, garage outlets and outside outlets. Also handles garage door openers.
Circuit 2: probably a bootleg extension to a different part of the garage that also feeds a kitchen outlet in the floor above. That outlet has a coffee maker.

Circuit 2 is probably a no-go. I don't trust it for starters, and it has that coffee maker.

Circuit 1 has those garage door openers. Seems problematic, no?

I likely will just plan on getting a dedicated 50amp circuit installed just for charging. But before I do, I'd like to at least try the level 1 included charger.
 

phidauex

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So I have two 20 amp circuits in my garage.

Circuit 1: GFCI, garage outlets and outside outlets. Also handles garage door openers.
Circuit 2: probably a bootleg extension to a different part of the garage that also feeds a kitchen outlet in the floor above. That outlet has a coffee maker.

Circuit 2 is probably a no-go. I don't trust it for starters, and it has that coffee maker.

Circuit 1 has those garage door openers. Seems problematic, no?

I likely will just plan on getting a dedicated 50amp circuit installed just for charging. But before I do, I'd like to at least try the level 1 included charger.
Circuit 1 would be fine for interim use - the 120V chargers are usually limited to 12A by default (so they can work on 15A breakers), and that should leave a little headroom for a short-duration load like the garage door opening.

Long term the new circuit is a good call.
 

P. Regent

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I installed a 220V outlet (with an "EV" rated outlet, not a cheap big box version) in our garage instead of a hardwired EV charger unit when we bought a used Tesla last year for a few reasons:

1. Plug-in EVSEs are a lot cheaper, and if it breaks, it's easy to buy and plug in a new one - no need to call an electrician.

2. Also, I could take my charge cord with me when I'm going to be away for a while - like a week in the country vacation with family, for example) (None came with the Tesla.)

3. I anticipated having 2 EVs. (the Slate will make us an EV-only household)
With an outlet, I can install a "splitter" - like this - https://www.vevor.com/charger-stati...p-2x-14-50r-3-4-lcd-screen-etl-p_010226789703 You can stagger your charge times on the two vehicles and charge both from one outlet. I lowered my charge amperage to 24 for the Tesla, even though it's on a 50 amp circuit. That handles all of our needs with time to spare. If for some reason we needed to charge two cars in a limited amount of time I could raise the amperage and I'm sure it would go fine.
 

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Circuit 1 would be fine for interim use - the 120V chargers are usually limited to 12A by default (so they can work on 15A breakers), and that should leave a little headroom for a short-duration load like the garage door opening.

Long term the new circuit is a good call.
There was strong evidence provided yesterday (I think) that the included EVSE does support 16a draw in L1 mode. So I don't know about headroom for garage motor startup. But I am dearly hoping the the mystery charge setting of the car will allow for granular settings, even for L1.

@tubes might need to be disciplined about not using door opener whilst charging.
 

FlyHappy

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I installed a 220V outlet (with an "EV" rated outlet, not a cheap big box version) in our garage instead of a hardwired EV charger unit when we bought a used Tesla last year for a few reasons:

1. Plug-in EVSEs are a lot cheaper, and if it breaks, it's easy to buy and plug in a new one - no need to call an electrician.

2. Also, I could take my charge cord with me when I'm going to be away for a while - like a week in the country vacation with family, for example) (None came with the Tesla.)

3. I anticipated having 2 EVs. (the Slate will make us an EV-only household)
With an outlet, I can install a "splitter" - like this - https://www.vevor.com/charger-stati...p-2x-14-50r-3-4-lcd-screen-etl-p_010226789703 You can stagger your charge times on the two vehicles and charge both from one outlet. I lowered my charge amperage to 24 for the Tesla, even though it's on a 50 amp circuit. That handles all of our needs with time to spare. If for some reason we needed to charge two cars in a limited amount of time I could raise the amperage and I'm sure it would go fine.
Fwiw, some "plug in" EVSE (aka, "portable") instruct you to cut and strip the plug for hard wire use.
So, basically saying cost isnt a direct correlation.
Also... hardwiring a unit of that type makes the connection somewhat cheaper and safer, yes you give up portability, but Id prefer to keep factory evse in car.

Since EVSE has built in gfi , hardwiring eliminates future risk any inspector may have about a 240v receptacle with no GFCI breaker (expensive). Lots of places getter tighter lately about GFCI in garages.
 

phidauex

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There was strong evidence provided yesterday (I think) that the included EVSE does support 16a draw in L1 mode. So I don't know about headroom for garage motor startup. But I am dearly hoping the the mystery charge setting of the car will allow for granular settings, even for L1.

@tubes might need to be disciplined about not using door opener whilst charging.
I don't think it will support 16A in 120V configuration, at least without some special adapter or setting change. It has a 5-15 plug (two vertical blades), which is for a 15A receptacle, with a 15A non-continuous max, or a 12A continuous max. If it was designed to pull 16A, it would need to have one horizontal blade (5-20 plug), so that it could only be plugged into 20A receptacles on 20A circuits. Those things exist, but aren't common in households.

As for the garage door, probably depends on how old the motor is and how heavy the door is. Modern 1/4 or 1/2 HP motor is probably only adding 200-300W for several seconds, probably not enough to trip a 15A thermal magnetic breaker, and certainly not enough to trip a 20A breaker.

If it is a big ole honking wood door with a 3/4 or 1 hp motor, and on a 15A breaker, then that may be too much for the circuit to take while the charger is running.
 

tubes

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Since EVSE has built in gfi , hardwiring eliminates future risk any inspector may have about a 240v receptacle with no GFCI breaker (expensive). Lots of places getter tighter lately about GFCI in garages.
I haven't talked to my electrician yet. That's a task for next year. But I think any plug in a garage or shed needs GFCI in this jurisdiction. I'd probably just go with hardwire and ask him to keep a service loop, if possible. To do this, I see some installations drop a covered connection box below the charger (assuming wire comes from up top) and then a direct hardwire connection to that box. You have room this way for future changes.

For my L1 outlet -- aside from maybe not using the opener at the same time -- I think I'll have to flip this outlet in order to fit the pictured charger. Otherwise the wall gets in the way, unless there is a dual connector on the other side, which I doubt. EDIT: the openers are modern and kind of modern 1/2 hp, not big old 40 year old honkers, although the small single door is wood.
Slate Auto Pickup Truck Suggestions for a Level 2 home charger? 1784143291887-9s
 
 





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