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Part of my reason for asking the question was to try to smoke out more info. Using a seperate pack for the added power keeps the build simple. As an add on it shouldn't matter WRT cell rebalancing IF the pack has it's own BMS. All that would matter would be the output voltage. The problems I...

1.) Will the battery be actively heated/cooled? 2.) It is my understanding that the Slate uses pouch style cells packed in modules; 2 modules for the ~150 mile, 3 modules for the ~240 mile version. Will it be possible to "upgrade" to the longer range version if needs change?

I also have received different answers. I would want at least NEMA 5-15 120 VAC. Enough for a small compressor, chop saw, TV, coffee pot, etc I don't need a truck to prove myself, I need it to get "stuff" done. Even if the V2L is $$$, it would still be worth it to me.

Or a marked "drill here" or better yet a punch out to access the 12 V battery and perhaps mounting for a fuse block. This would be more in keeping with the DIY mindset.

The main principle that is central to Slate is K.I.S.S. (keep it simple [you figure this one out]). Keep the "smarts" on the phone app. Keep the truck as simple as possible. Slate isn't revealing how mush of it operating system is software driven. Example; Regen breaking - some view heavy regen...

Assuming the normal "tire kicking" one should do with a used car, I say yes. If Slate becomes as popular as I suspect; The used frame (unibody), motor and battery pack, will alone have value. For example if I had one right now, I would build a "Woody"...add a surfboard and there you go...not to...