cvollers

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I'm hoping there's at least cutouts for 6'' speakers in the doors. I just want something more substantial than removable speaker pods. I don't want to take out speakers and things like that, just let me drill 'em into the door and be done with it!

Honda Elements have their speakers mounted to the door cards instead of the doors. The grill just goes over the top, that'd be the ideal solution. If the door cards just had a panel that covered 6'' holes and you could put a mesh 'grill' panel on top it'd be perfect.

1748043122690-s0.jpg
Snagged this screen grab from the TFL vid. See that panel that is bolted on? Perfect place to mount a speaker.

Slate Auto Pickup Truck Dashboard Speakers come standard, and more audio options in the works [confirmed] 1748214610815-qo
 

danielt1263

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I'll chime in with my guess about those switches. Many accessories will require power. I saw in a video one of the prototypes had a connector in the slot where the double-din stereo would go.

So my guess is that those "accessory switches" are for turning the power on/off to the various fuses and plugs that will be all over the place.
 

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I'll chime in with my guess about those switches. Many accessories will require power. I saw in a video one of the prototypes had a connector in the slot where the double-din stereo would go.

So my guess is that those "accessory switches" are for turning the power on/off to the various fuses and plugs that will be all over the place.
Auxiliary switches are for those who add lots of aftermarket electrical stuff, usually on the exterior of the vehicle, like fog lights (me), light bars, RGB accent lighting, 550 decibal train horn (which I'm seriously considering), winch, etc. Mostly lighting.

Adding all those aftermarket switches to a dashboard can be a challenge, so a slim, customizable, multi-switch bank unit like the one SA seems to be offering is a plus for those who don't want to drill holes and want to maintain the clean stock dash look. So if you're not planning on adding lots of exterior lighting or a winch, NO, you probably won't ever need the aux switch bank.

Also, aux switch banks are not generally used for car stereos, which are, of course, inside the vehicle and within easy reach and already have their own power switch. And SA has confirmed the dash will be pre-wired for aftermarket stereo head units (that likely just means it has a universal power plug that connects the stereo to the ignition so when you startup your "engine," the car stereo would automatically startup too). Car stereos generally would not attach to the auxiliary switch bank, it's completely unnecessary. So, if anyone's thinking about installing their own aftermarket stereo and are unclear on this matter, NO, you don't need the optional aux switches.

*unless I"m compltely, utterly, 1000% wrong.
**I doubt SA is trying to "reinvent the wheel" on this stuff, so I'm probably correct. :)
 

cvollers

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Auxiliary switches are for those who add lots of aftermarket electrical stuff, usually on the exterior of the vehicle, like fog lights (me), light bars, RGB accent lighting, 550 decibal train horn (which I'm seriously considering), winch, etc. Mostly lighting.

Adding all those aftermarket switches to a dashboard can be a challenge, so a slim, customizable, multi-switch bank unit like the one SA seems to be offering is a plus for those who don't want to drill holes and want to maintain the clean stock dash look. So if you're not planning on adding lots of exterior lighting or a winch, NO, you probably won't ever need the aux switch bank.

Also, aux switch banks are not generally used for car stereos, which are, of course, inside the vehicle and within easy reach and already have their own power switch. And SA has confirmed the dash will be pre-wired for aftermarket stereo head units (that likely just means it has a universal power plug that connects the stereo to the ignition so when you startup your "engine," the car stereo would automatically startup too). Car stereos generally would not attach to the auxiliary switch bank, it's completely unnecessary. So, if anyone's thinking about installing their own aftermarket stereo and are unclear on this matter, NO, you don't need the optional aux switches.

*unless I"m compltely, utterly, 1000% wrong.
**I doubt SA is trying to "reinvent the wheel" on this stuff, so I'm probably correct. :)
Wireless switches don’t just magically connect to DC loads. There needs to be a wireless hub /fuse block that those DC loads connect to plus a negative ground bus bar. Is Slate going to include this wireless hub as standard equipment but make the wireless switch bank optional as an accessory? [edit: see my other post about the Garmin PowerSwitch for wireless DC load control.]
 
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Swinefuzz

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Wireless switches don’t just magically connect to DC loads. There needs to be a wireless hub /fuse block that those DC loads connect to plus a negative ground bus bar. Is Slate going to include this wireless hub as standard equipment but make the wireless switch bank optional as an accessory?
Huh? Wireless? I didn't know the aux switch bank was wireless. Huh? I don't believe that it is. Where are you getting this from?

...

I just checked SA's website and their meager details on the aux switch bank mention nothing about them being wireless.
 

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I think the wireless thing came from the Tesla aux switch addon, which is wireless I believe. That Aux switch array looks to be not even textured on the website so I'm sure they don't even have the design figured out for the truck yet. I would hope they are hard-wired or at least physically wired to relays for higher current loads like lights.

All of my accessories, (stereo, dashcam, dimmer mirror) that I want to add wouldn't need switches, just a switched supply from the ignition. Although the stereo will also need constant power for the clock/memory. At least they seem to have the radio portion somewhat figured out with the plug for power and stuff for it.
 
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. And SA has confirmed the dash will be pre-wired for aftermarket stereo head units (that likely just means it has a universal power plug that connects the stereo to the ignition so when you startup your "engine," the car stereo would automatically startup too).
I recall the CEO saying it was built to fit a double din radio. I did not know they confirmed it would be pre wired for one as well.
 

cvollers

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Huh? Wireless? I didn't know the aux switch bank was wireless. Huh? I don't believe that it is. Where are you getting this from?

...

I just checked SA's website and their meager details on the aux switch bank mention nothing about them being wireless.
It’s part of this thread. Not a known fact, but assumed based on what Slate is showing and what other manufacturers have done.
 

cvollers

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Anyone on this forum who owns a Tesla should already be familiar with a similar wireless button solution called "S3XY." These buttons, which can be 'stuck' anywhere in the cabin, allow owners to add up to eight buttons to access their vehicle’s controls and systems. Examples include opening/closing doors, trunks and frunks, controlling lights, adjusting regen settings, activating autopilot, etc. This eliminates the need to use the main screen. For the Slate, since there is no screen (other than the one you bring) these buttons will be limited to auxiliary lighting, sound / speaker options, and future upgrades. Just think of the buttons as a 'shortcut' to using the Slate app. Remember, some of the folks on the Slate team are former Tesla staff engineers.
Garmin makes a similar product called the PowerSwitch which uses an app on your phone for switch control: https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/718849/

Another cool “stick on” product is this Alpine wireless control knob for their Halo series head units: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500RUXH02/Alpine-RUX-H02.html
 

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It’s part of this thread. Not a known fact, but assumed based on what Slate is showing and what other manufacturers have done.
This thread is stuffed with assumptions that the aux switch bank that SA is offering is wireless like what Tesla has done. Nor has anyone on this thread state that SA has confirmed they are wireless. SA's website just says they're for controlling exterior accessories like lighting. The round things on the ends of the switch bank look like momentary buttons, like what one would use to honk an add-on horn. They don't look like volume knobs. But it could be just a bad photoshop rendering of something that doesn't even physically exist yet. Who knows.
 

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Be very careful with aux switches and adding on extra loads to the 12V battery in an EV.

EVs I have seen have a tiny 12V battery as they are not needed for cranking / starting.

EV 12V batteries in almost all brands are the "achiles heel" for multitudes of issues.

My Ford EV uses a small 35AH sealed battery but as soon as any voltage drop happens, it disables start up, unlocking doors, and any remote commands from my phone.

Currently, I am trying to add a dual band amateur radio (UHF & VHF) as well as an aviation (VHF AM) radio and the power draw will be an issue as they draw up to 8A on transmit.

Looking at powering them with an external LFP 12V battery using solar charging since the sun is out 350 days out of the year here....
 

cvollers

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Be very careful with aux switches and adding on extra loads to the 12V battery in an EV.

EVs I have seen have a tiny 12V battery as they are not needed for cranking / starting.

EV 12V batteries in almost all brands are the "achiles heel" for multitudes of issues.

My Ford EV uses a small 35AH sealed battery but as soon as any voltage drop happens, it disables start up, unlocking doors, and any remote commands from my phone.

Currently, I am trying to add a dual band amateur radio (UHF & VHF) as well as an aviation (VHF AM) radio and the power draw will be an issue as they draw up to 8A on transmit.

Looking at powering them with an external LFP 12V battery using solar charging since the sun is out 350 days out of the year here....
Having an extra onboard 12v battery in an EV seems a bit silly and superfluous. Why not just use a step down converter?
 

metroshot

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Having an extra onboard 12v battery in an EV seems a bit silly and superfluous. Why not just use a step down converter?
A small LFP battery independent of the EV's 12V will prevent those parasitic load drawing issues or discharging faster than the HV battery pack to recharge causing your EV to not start or unlock.

Step down ?
All my radio gear takes 12V (13.8VDC rated).
 

cvollers

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A small LFP battery independent of the EV's 12V will prevent those parasitic load drawing issues or discharging faster than the HV battery pack to recharge causing your EV to not start or unlock.

Step down ?
All my radio gear takes 12V (13.8VDC rated).
Step down from the 400v vehicle battery. Sure, there will be some drawdown but it’s de minimis compared to the vehicle motor load. I would probably pack along a nice 1000Wh LFP power station for auxiliary DC loads and infrequent AC load needs.
 

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Step down from the 400v vehicle battery. Sure, there will be some drawdown but it’s de minimis compared to the vehicle motor load. I would probably pack along a nice 1000Wh LFP power station for auxiliary DC loads and infrequent AC load needs.
How do you propose to tap into the HV battery pack ?

Never heard of anyone tapping into the HV pack - I'd never do it - too many problems with potential fires, shorting, BMS module damage, etc...

The cables are sheathed in orange tubing which indicates high voltage when first responders cut into the vehicle during extraction after an accident.


And yes, I have the EcoFlow solar battery portable pack for recharging my EVs in the case of grid down....
 
 
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