Low power mode

[cadblu]

I’ve learned a few low power tricks with Tesla ownership that I’d like to share;

1- adjust HVAC to a few degrees cooler than outside temperature. You’ll be reasonably comfortable and auto blower speed will be reduced
2- I turn off the headlights / HVAC when waiting to pickup passengers
3- drive normal speeds at or below speed limit
4- avoid ludicrous or insane acceleration settings 😬
5- if feasible, use seat heaters / seat cooling instead of HVAC system (not an option for Slate, but way more efficient)

 

[1yeliab_sufur1]

Isn’t it more efficient to run the ac vs the window down I rember reading ac on is 10% and windows down is 20% for gas consumption bigger in this case being bad idk how it is with ev’s though but going by that logic ac off and windows up would be the most efficient

 

[KevinRS]

I’ve learned a few low power tricks with Tesla ownership that I’d like to share;

1- adjust HVAC to a few degrees cooler than outside temperature. You’ll be reasonably comfortable and auto blower speed will be reduced
2- I turn off the headlights / HVAC when waiting to pickup passengers
3- drive normal speeds at or below speed limit
4- avoid ludicrous or insane acceleration settings 😬
5- if feasible, use seat heaters / seat cooling instead of HVAC system (not an option for Slate, but way more efficient)

Seat heater is supposed to be available as an add on, as a seat cover.

 

[KevinRS]

Isn’t it more efficient to run the ac vs the window down I rember reading ac on is 10% and windows down is 20% for gas consumption bigger in this case being bad idk how it is with ev’s though but going by that logic ac off and windows up would be the most efficient

At any kind of normal travelling speed, yes windows down is worse than AC on, but in many locations windows up AC off is just not going to be an option part of the year.

 

[1yeliab_sufur1]

At any kind of normal travelling speed, yes windows down is worse than AC on, but in many locations windows up AC off is just not going to be an option part of the year.

true I live in az so yah ac always on heater in winter XD

 

[Lynx]

Slightly OT;
The choice, 150 mile battery V 240 mile battery (80% charge = 120 Mi and 192 Mi)
150 pro price, lighter curb weight=easier on the tires
con where will the range be in a few years, in the winter? 8% loss with age =12 miles or 138 miles 0F winter -40 miles(per 100) = 98 miles (68 miles if you only charge to 80%)
240 pro even assuming 8% loss (19.2 miles say 20) leaves you with 220 miles on a cold withers day 0F -40 miles (cold battery and your blasting the heater) You still have 180 miles to drive with. (132 miles with the 80% rule)
con price (?), extra weight (might be a plus in the snow.)

One more thought, adding a plug in warmer pad to the battery pack? I use this on my LFP golf cart in winter. It only comes on if below 40F and very affordable. However Slate may already have battery temp management.

True that. Another additional factor to add to the range calculation is if you don't want to discharge the battery all the way in order to preserve your battery and reduce aging. If you're aiming to not charge above 80/85% and not drive below 20% then the total worse case scenario winter driving calculations would be:

Extended Range Battery:
240 mi = Total battery range from 100% to 0%
220 mi = Max range assuming 8% loss with battery age (19.2 miles say 20) [-20 mi]
132 mi = Max range if you keep the battery state-of-charge (SOC) b/w 80% and 20% [-88 mi]
92 mi = Max range assuming cold battery and you're using the energy intensive resistor heater (Slate said they are not using a heat pump) on a cold winter day. [-40 mi per 100mi]

Standard Battery:
150 mi = Total battery range from 100% to 0%
138 mi = Max range assuming 8% loss with battery age [-12 mi]
82 mi = Max range if you keep the battery state-of-charge (SOC) b/w 80% and 20% [-56 mi]
50 mi = Max range assuming cold battery and you're using the energy intensive resistor heater (Slate said they are not using a heat pump) on a cold winter day. [-32 mi per 80mi]

This leaves the worst-case scenario range for the base truck with no modifications or extra weight as:
Extended battery: 92 mi
Standard battery: 50 mi

BONUS: Let's say you have the SUV/Fastback kit installed (more weight) you might be looking at even shorter range. Also if you are hauling anything of significant weight, either cargo or more passengers, you would see even further range loss. Assuming you have SUV kit and 3 passengers + you the driver and possibly some light cargo, we could take off another ~10 mi from each and assume worst case range in that case would be 82 mi and 40 mi respectively.

In either worst-case scenario on a winter day, the extended range should definitely still be enough for most people day-to-day, and for the standard range maybe you keep your battery SOC between 15% and 85% in the winter to just give you a slight range boost without significantly increasing your battery aging. In my case however, I happen to have a 50mi commute to my job and a 50mi commute back to home every day, not including any errands. So in my situation, I would need at the very least 100mi of range bare minimum but 120-140 mi to not feel any range anxiety. So in my case, I'd either have to find a charger near my job and charge while I work or I'd have to take the hit to my battery aging/life long-term and just use it fully charged in the winters.

 

[Bayfire2441]

Right you are, dug around the forums for a decent interior shot and found one that's hard to read but clearly has PUSH | AC and PUSH | HEAT

also out of curiosity I was looking up what analog instrument clusters for EVs look like, quite the variety:
2011 Th!nk City

1980 Vanguard Comuta Car

Just so its out there, here is a clear picture of the heat/AC controls from RCR's video. It does seem like heat will be a button toggle like AC is traditionally.