School me on level two charging

[Dorbiman]

I think it's 40A continuous requires a 50A circuit, and 48A continuous requires a 60A circuit. 125% of load (or 80% continuous on circuit)

 

[Garbone]

I think it's 40A continuous requires a 50A circuit, and 48A continuous requires a 60A circuit. 125% of load (or 80% continuous on circuit)

Correct. My place has 200amp service and the previous owners had an sauna I use as a cedar closet. Just took that location on the panel. Sauna in Florida is going outside.

 

[metroshot]

Is it worth it to spend the extra money for 8 more amps of charging current (40a with plug vs. 48a hardwired)?

My electrician said that outlets have melted and burned due to the constant draw of power.

By hardwiring it, you eliminate a weak point in the power delivery cycle.

2+ years and not a single issue - no warm wires/cables at a full 48A draw.

60A dual breakers on our 200A service was just perfect as we use mostly NG: gas water heater, gas stove, gas furnace, and gas BBQ.

 

[Blackspots76]

You should spend a minute watching Tom on the YouTube Channel: Star of Charge.

He has spent nearly 10 years testing and reporting on chargers.

For maximum Level 2 charging you will need a 60 amp/240v circuit w a 14-50 receptacle. Most all the current chargers that 40-48Amp level 2 can be hardwired for 48amps and have 14-50 plugs for 40amps. Hardwiring will be more expensive then having a heavy duty cycle (EVSE rated) plug installed.

State of Charge will help you with your knowledge and give you a ton of reviews of the many different chargers out there.

NEVER wire a 14-50 to a 60A circuit. The 80% rule applies to the 14-50 too. So, no higher than a 50A breaker for a 50A outlet, and the max continuous load should never be higher than 40A. Putting this on a 60A breaker, and expecting it to run 48A through the outlet is just asking for the outlet to melt.
If you want a 60A breaker and charge at 48A, then hardwire is the way to go.

 

[SLATEchad]

I'm planning on (mostly) charging my Slate from home, and I was going to have a 240V outlet installed in the carport of my mobile home.
Can I spare the expense of a dedicated charger and just have a heavy duty 240V outlet installed?

Also, do I need to check amperage requirements? I live in a mobile home built when disco was king.

Thanks for the education-

That is what we did. We have two EV’s (no more ICE for us) and <15 mile round trip commutes and we just did a 14-50 Nema plug and use the charger that came with one of the cars with its 240 adapter. Can easily recharge from pretty low to full overnight on the rare occasion that’s needed.

I installed myself, but have some electrical training and am a confident DIYer. Make sure to research the products you use. Get the proper breaker to meet code, properly rated wire, and you shouldn’t just use a standard 240 like you’d use in a laundry room, it needs to be industrial or EV rated. Or pay an electrician to install it and make sure they use the proper parts as well.

 

[cadblu]

NEVER wire a 14-50 to a 60A circuit. The 80% rule applies to the 14-50 too. So, no higher than a 50A breaker for a 50A outlet, and the max continuous load should never be higher than 40A. Putting this on a 60A breaker, and expecting it to run 48A through the outlet is just asking for the outlet to melt.
If you want a 60A breaker and charge at 48A, then hardwire is the way to go.

And a new electrical code just went into effect; the breaker must be GFCI type!

 

[Blackspots76]

And a new electrical code just went into effect; the breaker must be GFCI type!

Makes no sense when the EVSE itself is a GFCI. Likely this for non-hard wired installations

 

[cadblu]

You are correct; not required for hardwired installations. Here‘s the latest on the NEC code regarding EV chargers:

• NEC Requirements:
  The NEC 2020 (and later versions) specifically requires GFCI protection for all receptacle outlets installed for EV charging. This means that if you are using a plug-in charger, the outlet you plug into must be GFCI protected.

• Receptacles vs. Hardwired:
  The GFCI requirement primarily applies to receptacles (outlets) used for plug-in EV charging. Hardwired EV chargers (those directly connected to the electrical system without a plug) may not require the same level of GFCI protection, as they often have their own integrated safety features.
  
  
• Why GFCI?
  GFCI protection is crucial for safety in areas where water and electricity might come into contact, such as garages or outdoor locations. EV charging, especially with plug-in chargers, can expose users to potential hazards if water gets into the connection.
  
  
• Cost Implications:
  GFCI breakers can be more expensive than standard breakers, and the installation may also require specialized wiring. Some manufacturers, like Tesla, recommend against installing their hardwired chargers on GFCI circuits because they have their own integrated safety features.
  
  
• Local Codes:
  While the NEC provides a baseline, local jurisdictions may have their own specific codes or amendments related to EV charging and GFCI protection. It's essential to check with your local electrical authority or a qualified electrician for the most up-to-date requirements in your area.

 

[Blackspots76]

I intend on hardwiring with a 50A breaker.

 

[metroshot]

Makes no sense when the EVSE itself is a GFCI. Likely this for non-hard wired installations

Correct.

Mine is hardwired and my electrician said there is a built into the charger a GFCI circuit.

 

[KJRaven]

Others have had some great information, if you have some time... there is a YouTube chanel - Technology Connections that has some great information about home charging... I highly recommend watching it if you are planning on a home charger, you might be able to get by with level 1, or a lesser amperage level 2 charger.

 

[Dorbiman]

Technology Connections is a great channel. I love his deep dives into everyday things.