The Slate is a Coupe Utility Vehicle (CUV)

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AZFox

AZFox

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What informs your expectations of this "Coupe Utility Vehicle," and do you think your expectations will be met?
The Truck will suit my needs wonderfully. I have other ways to go off-road, haul heavier loads, and go places that require more range.

On other side of the light-duty coin are low cost-of-ownership and improvements as an around-town Daily Driver.

For day-to-day driving I'm anticipating there will be significant Fun Factor. 🙂
 

Daemoch

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Lots. Just....lots.
I just loaded my 14' trailer with a commercial fridge and brought it home to fix up a couple hours ago.
Tomorrow I'll be hauling 2 very large very dirty basement dressers to the dump.
I'm currently gutting several rooms and have something like 40 bags of plaster and lathe and insulation to dispose of.
I just pulled down 30' of wall in my basement due to recent flooding we had out here which is also going to the dump.
Next weekend I need to go pickup a load of fire wood to split.
This is just 7 days.

ATM I'm pulling all this with a 2008 Mercedes Benz C300 (3.0 v6, auto, 2WD - Curtis hitch rated for 1k on this vehicle). It would be nice to not bother with a trailer or have something a little more suited to the job.
 

Daemoch

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Lots. Just....lots.
That says what the hitch Is rated to, not what the car is rated to. All class 1 hitches are 200/2k rated, because that's the definition of a Class 1 hitch and there is nothing lower. See the Miata hitch for further evidence of this. Heck, the Civic hitch even requires cutting sheet metal, which I'm sure Honda does not approve of either.

The aftermarket Slate hitches will have the same 200/2k hitch rating regardless of what the manufacturer tow rating is. Regardless of the hitch rating, exceeding the manufacturer vehicle rating is entirely at the owner's risk.
No. I see where you think thats how all this works, but that's not how any of it works. With enough math and an actual vehicle to use you can get all this info for yourself for any vehicle setup.

Heres a link to Curt's explanation on how hitch specs work.
Keep in mind they have liability insurance too and can't claim things they cant substantiate.

If thats not good enough, I'm including a pdf of the actual J2807 from 2016. Its a tad out of date, but good enough for this and not behind a paywall. Now anyone here can go rate their own vehicle like its 2016. Youre all welcome. lol

Keep in mind that getting a vehicle government certified isn't free and pretty pointless if you arent going to sell an OEM tow option. However, in other countries its sometimes required to list ANY vehicles with load specs for towing....which is why you get EU/Asian/Aussie cars with tow ratings but calculated to their specific regulation standards, and so different from the US numbers. The car may be physically identical, its just the formula that changes.

And finally, I'm the guy with the civic and the 1k lb tow limit. It's not some abstract combination we all just decided to use. Unfortunately the civic got wrecked a few months ago when some lady hit it while it was parked next to my house. I carried insurance on it, full coverage with every bell and whistle and no deductible. That included trailer and tow insurance; so even Erie thinks civics that never got trailer certified can tow trailers safely. Statefarm, AllState, and Progressive also all offered tow and trailer insurance on a 2000 Civic.

Just because Honda didn't want to pay the DOT testing people to tow-test to certify a car that they A) never designed a tow setup for, because they B) never intended to offer a tow package for it, doesn't mean it CAN'T... it only says:
Slate Auto Pickup Truck The Slate is a Coupe Utility Vehicle (CUV) Captur

....and after 25 years I dont think a warranty matters any more. Also note that no where does it say it can't, only that it "wasn't designed to" and that it "can void your warranty"....meaning it may be able to and that it may not void the warranty. Technically it would be on Honda to prove that any modifications caused any issues; not on you to prove they didn't. You can thank all the lawsuits in the 70s and 80s involving aftermarket stereos, car alarms, and remote starters for that.

Edit: The hitch was bolt on; nothing was cut. I did it myself. I was an ASE certified mechanic back in the 1990s and definitely know my way around a Garage.
 

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sodamo

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I just loaded my 14' trailer with a commercial fridge and brought it home to fix up a couple hours ago.
Tomorrow I'll be hauling 2 very large very dirty basement dressers to the dump.
I'm currently gutting several rooms and have something like 40 bags of plaster and lathe and insulation to dispose of.
I just pulled down 30' of wall in my basement due to recent flooding we had out here which is also going to the dump.
Next weekend I need to go pickup a load of fire wood to split.
This is just 7 days.

ATM I'm pulling all this with a 2008 Mercedes Benz C300 (3.0 v6, auto, 2WD - Curtis hitch rated for 1k on this vehicle). It would be nice to not bother with a trailer or have something a little more suited to the job.
Requirements change.
When building my house, my GMC double cab Sierra with 8 foot bed was so handy when I bought a skid of 3/4” cabinet plywood, several trips of 4x12 and 4x8 sheetrock, 2 pallets of ceramic tile, etc, but boy did I hate parking in Walmart lot.
My Slate will likely carry non of that but will definitely be parking at Walmart.
 

Daemoch

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Requirements change.
When building my house, my GMC double cab Sierra with 8 foot bed was so handy when I bought a skid of 3/4” cabinet plywood, several trips of 4x12 and 4x8 sheetrock, 2 pallets of ceramic tile, etc, but boy did I hate parking in Walmart lot.
My Slate will likely carry non of that but will definitely be parking at Walmart.
When I got a big load of stuff a while back I had Lowes deliver it ....via 18 wheeler and a fork lift. No way am I buying anything to do that kind of work! IIRC, delivery was free since I'm close enough or the total was high enough.
 

Driven5

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Heres a link to Curt's explanation on how hitch specs work.
Keep in mind they have liability insurance too and can't claim things they cant substantiate.
That's a link to how HITCH ratings work, which is just as I stated. The only point of confusion might have been the class vs hitch rating. Yes the individual hitch rating can be lower than the class rating, like the common 350/3.5k on Class III hitches. I don't think I've ever seen that done on a Class I hitch though. They all seem to be 200/2k, but I'll concede that doesn't mean it's always the case.

Here's the relevant part of your link:
Curt's actual stance on towing capacity said:
Most class 1 hitches are rated to tow trailers up to 2,000 lbs. However, it is important to remember that not all hitches are rated at the same capacity and that no hitch ever increases the maximum weight a vehicle can tow.
And here's the more relevant Curt link:
Curt - What's my towing capacity?
Curt's actual stance on towing capacity said:
Can I Tow a Trailer with My Car?

Yes, many cars can tow a trailer, as long as they have the right towing equipment and tow rating. Automobile towing capacities are rated by the manufacturer. Full-size sedans and other larger cars are often rated for some level of towing, while compact and sub-compact cars may not be.

To learn if your car can tow a trailer, refer to the owner's manual. Whether your car is rated to tow a trailer or not, CURT likely offers a custom receiver hitch for your make and model, even if it is only used for attaching a bike rack or cargo carrier.
This is their liability CYA for people that think hitch rating = vehicle rating. If there is no manufacturer rated towing capacity for a vehicle, Curt hitches are only rated to be used for attachments based on the tongue weight rating.


If thats not good enough, I'm including a pdf of the actual J2807 from 2016. Its a tad out of date, but good enough for this and not behind a paywall. Now anyone here can go rate their own vehicle like its 2016. Youre all welcome. lol
Even for people that are willing and able to not only set up a standard trailer, but perform and fully document all of that testing, including making the drive to Davis Dam... Good luck getting the structural test data for section 4.2. :CWL:


However, in other countries its sometimes required to list ANY vehicles with load specs for towing....which is why you get EU/Asian/Aussie cars with tow ratings but calculated to their specific regulation standards, and so different from the US numbers. The car may be physically identical, its just the formula that changes.
Foreign towing regulations and standards are based on the usage and limitations in their country, which can be very different than ours. Conflating them is a mistake, and using them as a point of comparison for US towing is little more than mental gymnastics to justify poor practices.


I carried insurance on it, full coverage with every bell and whistle and no deductible. That included trailer and tow insurance; so even Erie thinks civics that never got trailer certified can tow trailers safely. Statefarm, AllState, and Progressive also all offered tow and trailer insurance on a 2000 Civic.
That's not how any auto insurance I've known from multiple of those companies works. Yes they insure the car, and yes they insure the trailer. That doesn't mean they are specifically authorizing that car as able to safely tow that trailer, nor to cover that combination if outside of manufacturer ratings.

I own a 5000+ lb travel trailer and a Subaru Forester in addition to my F150. There is nothing in the insurance specifically linking my F150 to the trailer as it's official tow vehicle, but that also doesn't mean I'd be covered if I hitched it up to the Forester.

I've also never heard of 'tow' insurance for approving and insuring specific towing activities, which is already covered by the policies attached to the (tow rated) vehicle and/or trailer. The only personal "tow" insurance I know of is for covering the cost of help from a tow-truck in the event of a mechanical failure away from home... In other words, it's the industry name for roadside assistance.


Just because Honda didn't want to pay the DOT testing people to tow-test to certify a car that they A) never designed a tow setup for, because they B) never intended to offer a tow package for it, doesn't mean it CAN'T... it only says:
Slate Auto Pickup Truck The Slate is a Coupe Utility Vehicle (CUV) Captur


....and after 25 years I dont think a warranty matters any more. Also note that no where does it say it can't, only that it "wasn't designed to" and that it "can void your warranty"....meaning it may be able to and that it may not void the warranty. Technically it would be on Honda to prove that any modifications caused any issues; not on you to prove they didn't.
Toyota made a big show with it's previous gen Tundra demonstrating that it CAN tow 30x it's manufacturer rated (300k vs 10k) towing capacity... Which also provides zero useful information or context for meaningful towing discussions. What something "can" tow is an irrelevant and invalid point of comparison to what something else is rated to tow. It's like using that a supercar can go 200mph, and is allowed in another country under their specific conditions, as justification for doing so anywhere else. Good luck making that argument to authorities and insurance if caught or anything goes wrong.

No, the modification of simply adding the hitch itself cannot be used to deny warranty claims. If it was used for towing though, which the 4-pin wired in would be a dead giveaway, the statement "Your vehicle is not designed to tow a trailer" should meet the low bar of 'proof' used to deny warranty coverage on all sorts of engine, transmission, driveline, suspension, brake, electrical and even chassis issues. Sure they could cover it anyway, but only out of pure generosity or lack of observational skills. Even on an out-of-warranty car that statement also is just as applicable to insurance, civil lawyers, and even criminal lawyers making the driver personally and financially liable when towing for all sorts of bad things that happen on the roads.

Everybody has their own risk tolerance, so you do you, but anybody using towing with an unrated car as some kind of argument about them being able to tow as much as Slate is nothing but an illogical rationalization. The only relevant towing comparison between the two is that Slate quite simply enjoys a 1,000 lb (technically infinite) rated advantage.
 
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KevinRS

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And finally, I'm the guy with the civic and the 1k lb tow limit.
This is where I was talking about comparing a Slate's 1k tow rating to a civic's non-rating. Most likely, if you really want to, you could tow 2k with a Slate as easily as you towed 1k with a civic. I'm not recommending it, just saying people will probably do it. Somewhere there was a complaint that a Slate could only tow what a civic did, but that's comparing a "rating" to a "did it despite not being rated"
On vehicles being rated in other countries, you also can't count on the vehicle actually being identical. It may be sold with the same name, but have some structural or other changes required for that country's regulations, that happen to put it into a towing class.
 

atx_ev

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That's a link to how HITCH ratings work, which is just as I stated. The only point of confusion might have been the class vs hitch rating. Yes the individual hitch rating can be lower than the class rating, like the common 350/3.5k on Class III hitches. I don't think I've ever seen that done on a Class I hitch though. They all seem to be 200/2k, but I'll concede that doesn't mean it's always the case.

Here's the relevant part of your link:


And here's the more relevant Curt link:
Curt - What's my towing capacity?

This is their liability CYA for people that don't understand, nor take the time to learn, the difference between hitch ratings vs vehicle ratings. If there is no manufacturer rated towing capacity for a vehicle, Curt hitches are only rated to be used for attachments based on the tongue weight rating.



Even for people that are willing and able to not only set up a standard trailer, but perform and fully document all of that testing, including making the drive to Davis Dam... Good luck getting the structural test data for section 4.2. :CWL:



Their regulation standards are based on the usage limitations in their country, which can be very different than ours. Conflating them is a mistake, and using them as a point of comparison for US towing is little more than mental gymnastics to justify poor practices.



That's not how any auto insurance I've known from those companies works. Yes, they insured your car and they insured your trailer. That doesn't mean they are specifically authorizing that car as able to safely tow that trailer, nor to cover that outside manufacturer rating combination.

I own a 5000+ lb travel trailer and a Subaru Forester in addition to my F150. There is nothing in the insurance specifically linking my F150 to the trailer as it's official tow vehicle, but that doesn't mean I'd be covered if I hitched it up to the Forester.

I've also never heard of 'tow' insurance for approving and insuring specific towing activities, which is covered under normal policies attached to the vehicle and/or trailer. The only personal towing insurance I know of is for covering the cost of assistance from a tow truck in the event of a breakdown away from home... In other words, it's their name for roadside assistance.



Toyota made a big show with it's previous gen Tundra demonstrating that it CAN tow 30x it's manufacturer rated (300k vs 10k) towing capacity... Which also provides zero useful information or context for meaningful towing discussions. What something "can" tow is an irrelevant and invalid point of comparison to what something else is rated to tow. It's like using that a supercar can go 200mph, and is allowed to on public roads in another country, as justification for doing so on public roads here. Good luck making that argument to authorities and insurance if caught or anything goes wrong.

No, the modification of simply adding the hitch itself cannot be used to deny warranty claims. If it was used for towing though, which the 4-pin wired in would be a dead giveaway, the statement "Your vehicle is not designed to tow a trailer" should meet the low bar of 'proof' used to deny warranty coverage on all sorts of engine, transmission, driveline, suspension, brake, electrical and even chassis issues. If they choose not to anyway, it's purely out of generosity. Even on a 25 year old car that statement also can just as easily used by insurance, civil lawyers, and even criminal lawyers to make the driver personally and financially liable when towing for all sorts of bad things that might happen on the road.

Everybody has their own risk tolerance, so you do you, but using towing with a non-rated car as some kind of argument about them being able to tow as much as Slate is nothing but an illogical rationalization. The only relevant towing comparison between the two is that Slate quite simply enjoys an (infinitely higher) 1,000 lb legal advantage in the towing department.
If you put a hitch on a civic with no tow rating and it breaks off and your trailer causes accidents, I suspect that your trailer insurance will get denied.

Your trailer insurance likely would cover if your trailer got hit and the trailer and contents were damaged.
 

Mac-Tyson

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It seems like a lot of people are expecting the Slate to be more truck-like than it will actually be.

The Slate is car with a pickup bed. There's a name those: "Coupe Utility Vehicle" or CUV.

A coupé utility is a vehicle with a passenger compartment at the front and an integrated cargo at the rear, with the front of the cargo bed doubling as the rear of the passenger compartment. -- source

Other CUV examples would be a Chevy El Camino, a Ford Ranchero, a Subaru Brat, and a Volkswagen Pickup.

Slate Auto Pickup Truck The Slate is a Coupe Utility Vehicle (CUV) {filename}


They're all cars with beds, not trucks, and they all provide abundant stuff-hauling capability.

I won't go as far as to say a Slate pickup is a TINO (Truck In Name Only). I'm just noticing that the Slate Truck is a Slate Compact Car With a Bed.

It's a pickup, but not quite a pickup ''truck'', at least for some intents and purposes -- for example, towing. The Slate's has the towing capacity of a subcompact car.

This is an observation, not criticism.
Slate is RWD and while the Slate Board became its own thing it was initially designed to be more Body on Frame like then Unibody. That gives it more of a respect than as a Truck than the Maverick for example. Right now they are trying to make it the most affordable possible which has resulted in more CUV capabilities. But I won’t doubt it if each refresh/generation has more and more truck capabilities as it becomes for feasible to do so economically.
 

GaRailroader

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Note that it is possible that when Slate adds the front motor option they will also increase tow rating of the dual motor equipped Slates. There is precedent for this in that the Cybertruck is only rated at 7500 pounds for single motor and 11,000 pounds for dual motor and Cyberbeast. The Maverick Hybrid 2WD can only be equipped at 2,000 pounds where as the new AWD Hybrid Maverick can be optioned for a 4K tow rating.

For me I am fine with 2WD and a 1000 lb tow limit. I plan to use the bed and not use it for towing.

One final point on towing with an EV. I don’t actually have any experience towing with an EV but I did put a 2 inch receiver on my Model 3 for attaching a bike rack. I frequently use the bike rack when taking trips where I also will be Supercharging. I am sure it will improve over time but it is not stress free charging when you have a trailer or bike rack on the back. On the earlier generation chargers the cords are quite short and it is difficult to back in close enough so the cord will reach. On a lot of the older chargers the charger itself sits behind the parking spot limiting how far you can back in to it. I have at times parallel parked next to a charger so I could get the charge port close enough to the charger. On some stations they have 1 or 2 pull in spots where the charger is adjacent to the parking spot instead of behind it but some drivers pick these spots first even though they don’t have a bike rack or trailer presumably because they are not comfortable backing in. Fortunately, some of the newer chargers have all pull in spots where the charger is between spots which will make it easier to accommodate a truck with a trailer or a a bike rack. That being said when I take a trip in my Slate I will appreciate having my
lading in the bed and not on a trailer.
 
 
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