Will you be installing a Level 2 charger?

[Doctors Do Little]

Well, that NEMA 14-50 won't help me much, can't run that on a 30 amp circuit.

The charger won’t regulate/adapt? I’m misunderstanding the electrical.

 

[Whitesands]

Well, that NEMA 14-50 won't help me much, can't run that on a 30 amp circuit.

They also said they sell adapters for other plugs.

 

[KevinRS]

If the charger they ship has the ability to set the current limit, it could work. The one I was looking at, the hardwire version has dip switches to set max current, which can only be 80% of the rated limit of the connection, because it is continuous.
I also have the issue that that 30 amp outlet isn't conveniently located. Probably need to remove the outlet, and hardwire about 25 feet, probably through conduit, to where I'd need the charger at. Technically a job that should require an electrician and a permit, don't know if I could get away with DIY.

 

[Doctors Do Little]

If the charger they ship has the ability to set the current limit, it could work. The one I was looking at, the hardwire version has dip switches to set max current, which can only be 80% of the rated limit of the connection, because it is continuous.
I also have the issue that that 30 amp outlet isn't conveniently located. Probably need to remove the outlet, and hardwire about 25 feet, probably through conduit, to where I'd need the charger at. Technically a job that should require an electrician and a permit, don't know if I could get away with DIY.

True x 3. I could have DIY mine but on one house got an electrician and on another did electrician plus permits. Happy to know they are both properly done (conduits are easy - you can paint them to blend or bury them).

 

[RetiredOnPaper]

I may have posted something like this earlier; When I first got my Model 3, I lived for a year just using 120VAC 15A = charging speed of 5 miles/hr OK for everyday driving. I settled on a 240VAC 15A plug (The lowest level 2 you can get) Charging rate is 11 miles/hr (over night charging of 10 hours=110 miles added) more then my usual 60 to 100 mile daily driving. I never felt the need for anything more then that for the last 6 years. A good electrician should be able to wire that in easy and fast. No expensive heavy duty lines to install. Not mush harder then putting in a standard 120VAC plug. Ask yourself why you would want to charge at full level 2? (240VAC 32A) That's 30 mile/hr charge.

 

[Doctors Do Little]

I may have posted something like this earlier; When I first got my Model 3, I lived for a year just using 120VAC 15A = charging speed of 5 miles/hr OK for everyday driving. I settled on a 240VAC 15A plug (The lowest level 2 you can get) Charging rate is 11 miles/hr (over night charging of 10 hours=110 miles added) more then my usual 60 to 100 mile daily driving. I never felt the need for anything more then that for the last 6 years. A good electrician should be able to wire that in easy and fast. No expensive heavy duty lines to install. Not mush harder then putting in a standard 120VAC plug. Ask yourself why you would want to charge at full level 2? (240VAC 32A) That's 30 mile/hr charge.

It's only really helpful for BIG batteries (like my Lightning ER). Otherwise, slower is great for commuting.

 

[AZFox]

settled on a 240VAC 15A plug (The lowest level 2 you can get) Charging rate is 11 miles/hr (over night charging of 10 hours=110 miles added) more then my usual 60 to 100 mile daily driving.

That's useful to know! Thanks.

 

[sodamo]

Keep it up guys, non EV guy here still trying to learn. My goal is to avoid over night charging as I’m completely off grid and prefer not to put the added stress on my house batteries. I have an off grid friend currently charging around 22amps. Hoping the Slate allows that. Probably 95% of my trips will be about 50 miles and not everyday. Likely be occasional trips of less than 10 miles and even less opportunity of that 50 mile trip 2x/day. Usually if some has to be dropped off in morning and picked up later same day so very likely a few hours to charge in between.

 

[KevinRS]

My problem is I'll probably be parking in front of the attached garage. The flush mounted electrical panel is the opposite end of the house, and last breaker slots were taken up by solar. Maybe an electrician could do some condensing, but adding slots would probably mean a replacement panel or a subpanel added.
In the garage, closest to the front, really middle of the side wall is 1 wall plate with a chest freezer and a cord going to a security camera, past that is door to house, then the washer and gas dryer plugged into a 110, and the unused 30 amp dryer plug. Back wall of the garage is another plate with 110. The 110 outlets are all on the house's single GFCI circuit, that goes to one bathroom with the GFCI plug, and from there to the other bathroom, and the garage outlets and the outdoor outlet outside the back of the house.
Aside from the close 110 outlet being occupied, I really think adding a car charger to that circuit would be pushing it. I don't know how much it would cost to run another line from the panel, the length of the house, either through the attic or in conduit across the front under the eaves would be, but it's kind of got to be about the worst case scenario short of needing a whole new panel. Possibly hardwiring into that 30 amp 240 circuit at that plug, dropping down and going to the front of the garage in conduit, under the door to the house(the garage is like 4 inches below the house level) and through the wall next to the garage door seems like it will be the best option.
With a 30 amp circuit, you need to set for max 24 amp charging, because there is an 80% rule for continuous use. 24 amps should be plenty. Level 1 charging would probably work too, If I had a good place to plug in a level 1.

 

[Doctors Do Little]

My problem is I'll probably be parking in front of the attached garage. The flush mounted electrical panel is the opposite end of the house, and last breaker slots were taken up by solar. Maybe an electrician could do some condensing, but adding slots would probably mean a replacement panel or a subpanel added.
In the garage, closest to the front, really middle of the side wall is 1 wall plate with a chest freezer and a cord going to a security camera, past that is door to house, then the washer and gas dryer plugged into a 110, and the unused 30 amp dryer plug. Back wall of the garage is another plate with 110. The 110 outlets are all on the house's single GFCI circuit, that goes to one bathroom with the GFCI plug, and from there to the other bathroom, and the garage outlets and the outdoor outlet outside the back of the house.
Aside from the close 110 outlet being occupied, I really think adding a car charger to that circuit would be pushing it. I don't know how much it would cost to run another line from the panel, the length of the house, either through the attic or in conduit across the front under the eaves would be, but it's kind of got to be about the worst case scenario short of needing a whole new panel. Possibly hardwiring into that 30 amp 240 circuit at that plug, dropping down and going to the front of the garage in conduit, under the door to the house(the garage is like 4 inches below the house level) and through the wall next to the garage door seems like it will be the best option.
With a 30 amp circuit, you need to set for max 24 amp charging, because there is an 80% rule for continuous use. 24 amps should be plenty. Level 1 charging would probably work too, If I had a good place to plug in a level 1.

Losing a freezer full of food once while level 1 charging a PHEV convinced me to spend the $$$$ to add a new panel and two circuits for EV chargers (and balanced the loads between panels for EV’s, hvacs, etc).

Financially, it sucked, but now we are sort of future proofed until I do something else like solar.

At the time is was a $3K project, thanks to the nose bleed high cable costs 3 years ago. But brown-outs and lost freezer food and popped gfci’s are in the rear view.

If you are going to live there a while, it makes it easier to digest. My 300,000 cents worth…

 

[RetiredOnPaper]

My problem is I'll probably be parking in front of the attached garage. The flush mounted electrical panel is the opposite end of the house, and last breaker slots were taken up by solar. Maybe an electrician could do some condensing, but adding slots would probably mean a replacement panel or a subpanel added.
In the garage, closest to the front, really middle of the side wall is 1 wall plate with a chest freezer and a cord going to a security camera, past that is door to house, then the washer and gas dryer plugged into a 110, and the unused 30 amp dryer plug. Back wall of the garage is another plate with 110. The 110 outlets are all on the house's single GFCI circuit, that goes to one bathroom with the GFCI plug, and from there to the other bathroom, and the garage outlets and the outdoor outlet outside the back of the house.
Aside from the close 110 outlet being occupied, I really think adding a car charger to that circuit would be pushing it. I don't know how much it would cost to run another line from the panel, the length of the house, either through the attic or in conduit across the front under the eaves would be, but it's kind of got to be about the worst case scenario short of needing a whole new panel. Possibly hardwiring into that 30 amp 240 circuit at that plug, dropping down and going to the front of the garage in conduit, under the door to the house(the garage is like 4 inches below the house level) and through the wall next to the garage door seems like it will be the best option.
With a 30 amp circuit, you need to set for max 24 amp charging, because there is an 80% rule for continuous use. 24 amps should be plenty. Level 1 charging would probably work too, If I had a good place to plug in a level 1.

Don't get locked in to the idea you need the fastest charging possible. Even if you have to spend a few bucks just to get an electrician to "have a look". If you have two plugs near each other that are on opposite phases, he could wire them up for 240 15A. A few years ago you could but a cord that would effectively do just that. The trick was to know how to test the line for opposite phase. Back in "the day" I knew guys that would wire that up for running 240 VAC compressors and small welders. The same magic applies here.

 

[AKrietzer]

I'm just wondering, since adding a Level 2 charger can cost $1,500 to $3,000 or even more, does this add to the value of your house? Is this a selling point now, saying your house has the charger? Does this effect property tax and insurance cost?

 

[Doctors Do Little]

I'm just wondering, since adding a Level 2 charger can cost $1,500 to $3,000 or even more, does this add to the value of your house? Is this a selling point now, saying your house has the charger? Does this effect property tax and insurance cost?

Yes, no, no.
Should be a selling point -- saves somebody the trouble after they buy. They can upgrade to solar readily.

No issue on property taxes and insurance costs so far. My insurance obviously knows that I charge at home with L2 -- no other practical way to have a Lightning.