Home charging

[FloppaEnjoyer8067]

Thanks. I just checked the breaker box and my 240 is on a 30 amp circuit. An electrician installed it for my daughter’s welder. Has anyone read if 30A will be sufficient or will I need to upgrade to a 50A?
HootOwls

A welder is typically a 3 prong plug with 2 hots and a ground. A typical ev charger is a NEMA 14-50 which needs a neutral as well. If you have 1” EMT for the welder, it won’t be terrible to upgrade the circuit.

I would have an electrician (or yourself if you are comfortable) wire in a 50A Nema 14-50, then create or buy a NEMA 14-50 to a NEMA 6-50 (most welder plugs). That way, you just adapt to the welder when you are done.

 

[AZFox]

With Level 1 only about 80% of the electricity dispensed makes it to the battery whereas with level 2 you get more like 90% into the battery.

For me this, not charging speed(*), is the reason I'll use Level 2.

On general principles I prefer not to be wasteful.

(*) I can charge at home and will seldom drive a long distance in a day.

 

[GrizzlysGhost]

You may want to look at the actual dryer receptable (by unplugging) to see what type it is (10-30R or 14-30R) , it is probable that the included EVSE (cord) with the SLATE won't directly plug to it. Yes, adapters are available, but not really ideal.

Is the dryer receptacle reachable from where the car would be? Is it in a garage or something?

There are devices out there that facilitate the "sharing" of a circuit like that, ie - keeps drying and EVSE plugged in, but only allows one to operate at a time. For most people, the expense of that is best put towards a proper dedicated circuit install; this alternative is most useful for folks that have very small overall service in the home, renters, etc.

I was thinking something like this that would allow me to plug the dryer back in, and run an extension cord outside for the EV. I know it's archaic, but I don't anticipate needing to do it very often (if ever). I don't drive very often so my 110v in the shop will probably do just fine.

 

[Rocks]

Grizzl-E has a basic charger with a 6-50 plug as an option. It's probably a better socket for withstanding continuous current draw. So if you have a welder setup, and don't to care rewire/replace the plug, those might be a good choice.

 

[FlyHappy]

I agree that the vast majority of the people, including myself, could get by with Level 1. The efficiency nerd in me demands level 2. When I got my first Tesla in 2018 I did an experiment where I measured the kWh dispensed from the outlet and compared that to the kWh received at the battery for both Level 1 and Level 2. With Level 1 only about 80% of the electricity dispensed makes it to the battery whereas with level 2 you get more like 90% into the battery.

completely agree, fellow efficiency nerd.
absolutely a measurable loss at 120v vs 240v and ESPECIALLY for us charging in the cold of a real winter.

I just like folks to know that even at very low amperage, such as 20amps - 240v charging is completely reasonable for many, if not most.
I hate to see people burning 3, 4, $5,000+ for insane electrical work for which they see no benefit, but are wierdly conditioned to believe it is "necessary".

In fact, many people have garages with a dedicated 20a receptacle (or a couple daisy chained) which they never use. Its completely possible to merely retask that circuit for the cost of a double pole breaker and presto - very usable 3.8kw ready to go. Many even have that panel, in the garage, with a utility outlet directly below, ready to go (admittedly sometimes 15a, but sometimes 20a).

 

[FlyHappy]

I was thinking something like this that would allow me to plug the dryer back in, and run an extension cord outside for the EV. I know it's archaic, but I don't anticipate needing to do it very often (if ever). I don't drive very often so my 110v in the shop will probably do just fine.

extension cord is the problem.... 240v @ 30a is not really an approved thing.
but no worries, as you say, your existing garage power will be fine, you'll figure out how to manage it.

 

[GrizzlysGhost]

extension cord is the problem.... 240v @ 30a is not really an approved thing.
but no worries, as you say, your existing garage power will be fine, you'll figure out how to manage it.

Thanks! I'm just trying to think about all of the angles, probably won't do this at all and just stick to 110. 👍

 

[FloppaEnjoyer8067]

Grizzl-E has a basic charger with a 6-50 plug as an option. It's probably a better socket for withstanding continuous current draw. So if you have a welder setup, and don't to care rewire/replace the plug, those might be a good choice.

I’d double check the code book. EV chargers are considered continuous loads. I think welders have a special section too, but I can’t remember the details off the top my head.

 

[Rocks]

I’d double check the code book. EV chargers are considered continuous loads. I think welders have a special section too, but I can’t remember the details off the top my head.

Exactly. That's why the 14-50 out of the bin at Lowes meant for a dryer or oven tend to let the smoke out when used with a EV charger. That's why they have the ones now with the little car icon it on them at double the price.

Also IIRC 6-50s are rated for more plug/unplug cycles.

 

[FlyHappy]

Thanks! I'm just trying to think about all of the angles, probably won't do this at all and just stick to 110. 👍

don't discount the possibility of a 240v exterior outlet on side of house, if your breaker panel is near any exterior location the car could be. A short run thru wall and into a hinged, weather proof box can be pretty low cost and no more invasive then the "cable guy" casually drilling thru your wall to stuff coax cable thru

 

[Tom Sawyer]

I was thinking something like this that would allow me to plug the dryer back in, and run an extension cord outside for the EV. I know it's archaic, but I don't anticipate needing to do it very often (if ever). I don't drive very often so my 110v in the shop will probably do just fine.

Be careful buying electrical devices off Amazon, and make sure they are UL listed for the task. A LOT of the stuff on Amazon is not UL listed and 'complies with' any UL standard doesn't count.

 

[RevMS]

Here's what I did on my daughter's cabin. That's a NEMA 6-20 (240v 20a) outlet under the weather resistant cover. It wouldn't be much harder to do a similar thing inside a garage if your breaker box is in there.

Her Level 2 charger has a right angle plug on it so it can stay plugged in all the time and be protected from the weather. Something to keep an eye on when choosing a level 1 charger.

A lot of them have straight plugs and are not friendly to use in a semi-permanent way like this. Gravity tends to bend them down ... especially if you're plugging into a 110v outlet with the adaptor/extension like this one shows:

 

[EV Trek]

My outdoor setup for my Equinox EV

 

[FlyHappy]

Here's what I did on my daughter's cabin. That's a NEMA 6-20 (240v 20a) outlet under the weather resistant cover. It wouldn't be much harder to do a similar thing inside a garage if your breaker box is in there.

Boom ! perfect illustration of a practical approach. Obviously you had a subpanel handy nearby, and I assume there was greater then 20a capacity there, ya?
Was the choice of 20a merely a budgetary/no need for more thing, or was there another actual constraint?

 

[FlyHappy]

My outdoor setup for my Equinox EV

You win.
No contest.
Just... awesome.